I just want to brag a bit. Printed on an Anycubic Kobra 2. Runs without much problems. At the moment 10 Days on a single winding, tweakble up to 32 days. The weight is from another wooden self build clock.

Edit: cant i upload videos?

Edit 2: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-32-day-clock-easy-build-156759 (12$)

Edit 3: I just printed this clock, i didnt plan it myself if this is unclear…

      • DavidGarcia@feddit.nl
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        1 year ago

        IMO the black works. Brass could also be an option. I think the biggest improvement would probably to hide sack with some ornate print

        kinda like this AI generated example:

        • PixeIOrange@feddit.deOP
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          1 year ago

          Theres a shell with it, which i cheaped out, need more filament. 720X720-dsc05852c

          Edit: The sack is from this clock:

          UGE-412123-2-1363x2048

  • Sambomike20@lemmy.world
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    1 year ago

    That’s an awesome design! You’re one of the few people I’ve seen who also have a Kobra 2. You have any tips for that printer? I’m new to 3d printing, but I’ve found some weird workarounds for the problems it has with the M600 code for color changes.

    • PixeIOrange@feddit.deOP
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      1 year ago

      Filament change is buggy, yes. It worked exactly one time for me. Didnt get it to work again. I just paused the print in time and changed “manually”.

      I modified the start and end gcodes like described here. its german tho,so here the modified gcodes directly: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MnAVLDR7czikQ_prklkgt-AMtqOvZ3aV/view

      It prints 5 lines before the actual print to help with dripped empty nozzle. The first lyer will be much better. Also it pushes the heatbed to the front instead to the back after printing.

      After automatic leveling, you can modify the z-offset to fit with the settngs in the slicer. But watch out to not ram the nozzle into the bed. So watch out with setting it lower, higher shouldnt make problems.

      Have fun printing!