They did see it coming, this was the goal.

ASA and ABS are warp prone and this is an 11" / ~275mm wide print that’s equally tall 🤷

The build volume of my printer means lots of surface area for the acrylic enclosure, which in turn makes it hard for me to exceed a 50°C chamber temp, despite 4x bed fans.

The next print, with normal supports, pulled the bed off the magnetic build plate. Insulation eliminated warping and let me pull off the print.

I do agree that a “nicer” enclosure is the preferred method. I have zero issues with PETG at this size. I’ve never tried PLA on this printer, but it should be fine too.

I will second this, even though I also agreed with “build a Voron”. My 2.4 is a massively capable printer, and has a lot of quality of life features like actual mechanical bed leveling, but odds are your first build will have some teething issues. My extruder motor didn’t have a fully aeat wire terminal in its factory harness so it extruded inconsistently. Thankfully it was easy to find and fix. I’ve had a few wire breaks in my cable chains because I didn’t leave enough slack in the runs. The build itself is also long, but I did find it to be straightforward. Vorons are also Vorons, so the modding is endless.

Printer as a tool? Prusa. Maybe also Voron, especially if you want print volume/raw speed/quality of life. Printer as a tinkering device? Voron. Ship of theseus as you upgrade your way to a better printer? Ender.

Haha, came here to say the same thing.

Rather than 4x monitors, how about bigger and higher resolution monitors? I have 2x 27" 1440 monitors. They’re fine to read at 100% scaling, which gives me tons of space to put things. I often run four columns of windows side by side - two columns per monitor. Going back to 1080 in the office is a big downgrade. You could do a similar pattern with ultra wide and/or higher resolution.

Monitors with a built in KVM are tons cheaper in total, especially if you care about high refresh rates. I share my M27Qs and a mouse/keyboard between my personal computer and work laptop this way.

I’m not sure that I get the need for three laptops, but you do you.

Looks pretty cool. The frame reminds me a bit of a piper. Is this home brew?

Haha, our kids do go under our table at times but they know not to go under other people’s tables.

I don’t have much tolerance for absentee parenting either, especially if the kids wind up seeking attention from others, by say going under someone else’s table, because they’re not getting enough attention from their own parents.

As a parent of younger kids, we’re sorry. We come armed with as many activities as possible and will take our kids outside if they’re too excited until food gets to the table. That will help them focus on eating.

We very rarely went out to eat when they were toddlers due to fear of our kids bothering others and understand that our desire to experience some level of normalcy shouldn’t come at the expense of others.

All that said, if the parents are trying to keep their kids occupied, please extend some grace. Being a parent can be extremely isolating and we’re simply trying to pretend like we still get to do normal things once in a while.

Get a hear rate monitor and do High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT). It’s by far the fastest way to increase your stamina if you’re untrained and even if you are trained it’s a very effective means of increasing your stamina.

This is backed by science.

While significant improvements in endurance performance and corresponding physiological markers are evident following submaximal endurance training in sedentary and recreationally active groups, an additional increase in submaximal training (i.e. volume) in highly trained individuals does not appear to further enhance either endurance performance or associated physiological variables [e.g. peak oxygen uptake (V . O 2peak), oxidative enzyme activity]. It seems that, for athletes who are already trained, improvements in endurance performance can be achieved only through high-intensity interval training

It is generally believed that in sedentary (VO 2max <45 ml/kg/min) and recreationally active individ- uals (VO 2max ≈ 45 to 55 ml/kg/min), several years are required to increase VO 2max to that of the highly trained athlete (VO 2max > 60 ml/kg/min). [21,42] However, Hickson et al. [43] showed, in eight sedenyary and recreationally active individuals, that VO2max could be markedly increased (+44%; p < 0.05) after 10 weeks of high-intensity exercise training (alternating 40 minutes cycling intervals at VO 2max 1day, with 40 minutes high-intensity running the next, 6 d/wk

PrusaSlicer is a fork of Slic3r Bambu’s slicer is a fork of PrusaSlicer Orca Slicer is a fork of Bambu’s slicer and also pulls in ideas from super slicer (another PrusaSlicer fork).

In other words, they all share a common lineage. Each adds quality of life improvements over the fork, at least in theory. It’s possible those quality of life improvements will make it back upstream to the thing that was forked.

As for specific examples, Orca Slicer has a somewhat different set of tuning parameters, some unique-to-it quality things like scarf seams, built in tuning prints (temp towers, EM multiplier, pressure advance, a test to find your max flow rate, etc) a revamped UI, etc. I haven’t compared the two in a while, so it’s possible that some of this has made its way upstream by now.

TIL there’s a slicer called Lychee Slicer.

Sounds like a hot mess. Are you looking for a alternative? If yes, provide info but my off the cuff recommendation for a FDM printer is Orca Slicer.

On my direct drive Voron I could make it through retraction tower test prints fine with TPU, but it would always jam with retraction enabled on longer prints with my usual 0.3mm. Pulling apart the extruder would always reveal some TPU had gotten wrapped around the drive gear. Rather than try tuning until the failure went away, I just went with 0 lol.

Some succulents grow in such… seemingly unsustainable ways for the mother plant. I guess ultimately these are all some kind of propagation strategy for the plant though.

Alloe will overground their pots with tons of babies and fall over when they get too big.

Our big jade will intentionally dry out the center of some of its smaller branches to make the ends of the branch fall off in hopes of rooting.

I guess this is why the plants have been successful. It does make for some level of struggle as a house plant though, lol.

Thanks for the recommendations, I will check everything out!

Viking metal eh? I recently found Brothers of Metal and they’re banging. What else do you recommend?

It looks like the answer is yes - you can grow a normal plant from each leaf!

https://leafandclay.co/blogs/blog/4-basic-ways-of-propagating-succulents

Not a succulent expert by any means, but the fact that it’s growing some air roots and the dropped leaves also are trying to root also seems to point to not enough water.

We have a big jade that will air root when it’s too dry. Before it gets to that point it’s leaves will look noticeably less plump.

Succulents do require watering, but it’s very important to not overdo it. Our Jade is probably only watered ever two months or so when it’s outside (on an east facing porch in zone 6) during the summer and even less frequently in the winter. I know it well enough to be able to eyeball the plant at this point.

If it’s heat it could also be a cooling thing. If you search the web on your search engine of choice for “<printer name> driver overheat” you’ll see what solutions the community has already come up with.

If the print didn’t come off the bed, I don’t think adjusting z-offset will help. As prints get taller, if you’re running into issues with warping the corners will start to curl up.

Your printer definitely missed some x or y steps. Whether that was due to your drivers getting too hot and just that, or the extruder running into the print. Have you ever seen your printer do this:

How did you remove the pineapple last year? Cut the whole stalk off at the plant , right below the pineapple, something else?